Hiking the trail to Cibecue Falls is no “walk in the park."
Hiking the trail to Cibecue Falls is no “walk in the park.” Not only do you need strong legs and good water shoes -- with tread -- but you need good arm strength to maneuver yourself up and over boulders and good balance to cross over slick stones through a river determined to push you sideways into its watery clutches. And that’s if you survive the narrow and rocky dirt road on the towering, steep banks of the Salt River on the way to the trailhead. In fact, I would recommend a vehicle with high clearance because, not only is the road pretty rough but right before you reach the trailhead, you cross the Creek — and I decided to increase the challenges of this hike and brought my one-year-old, lab-mix rescue puppy, Duncan, to see how he would react to water.
The trail meanders along the Creek, through the Creek, over, around and in-between boulders. It wasn’t unusual to occasionally lose someone from our group to the watery abyss. The water was flowing pretty rapidly and the current nudged you as you crossed over its slippery, weedy stones. The temperature was pretty warm so falling in the water was a good thing. However, I was carrying my camera and was constantly on the look-out for an easy way to cross. In fact, it was at the first Creek crossing that I quickly figured out that I should let go of Duncan’s leash.
Duncan did great maneuvering over the rocks and through the Creek but he followed me so closely that he kept stepping on the heels of my sandals (I highly recommend Keen-type Sandals with a lot of tread and a closed toe). There was just one time that someone from our group (Allison) had to lift him up over a boulder — and he was grateful. I’m sure Allison didn’t even think twice about it. She brought her two young girls, Addison and Lauren, who she assisted across the Creek and over boulders — but only once in a while. They were pretty agile climbers.
I knew it was going to be a great hike when we were greeted by a red bird as we stepped down from the parking area onto the trail. The sandy path along the banks tunneled under willows and cottonwoods and the sound of the rushing stream instantly absorbed all of my worries. It was the namesake of the trail, however, that made it worth all of the challenges. That was the 40-foot waterfall at the end of the trail — the emerald-green pool of water — the cool cave that provided shade and the chance to eat our lunches and snacks and to rest up a bit before we turned around and headed back.
At the Falls, Duncan followed the other dogs, Coco and Abbie, into the pool of water but I noticed a wave of panic when he couldn’t figure out where the solid ground went. That ended his swimming excursions in deep water. He opted to stand in the shallows and encourage the other dogs from the sidelines. Once in a while, he would get in a little deeper but his swimming strokes were more like hops and leaps. I imagine it will take a few more trips to lakes and streams to get him to inherit the courage of his ancestors.
Insulated by canyon walls, the Cibecue Creek Trail, in my opinion, resembles Havasupai — only much smaller and not quite the distance. Round-trip, we hiked just over five miles. Including the slow 4-mile drive from AZ Route 60 and back, the occasional stops along the Creek and the time spent at the falls, the entire trip took just over five and a half hours. I will admit… that night Duncan and I slept like the rocks we climbed that day…and the next morning my muscles were a little sore. I think I even saw Duncan limp a little but we can’t wait to go back.
The best time to hike this trail is either in the spring/early summer or fall when the temperatures are not so hot.
To hike Cibecue Falls: From Show Low, take AZ Route 60 to the bottom of the Salt River Canyon (at the border of the San Carlos and the White Mountain Apache Reservation). Just before the bridge, there is a road (rafting staging area), turn right and follow this road until you cross the Creek. The Trailhead is just past the Creek. Dogs are allowed but you MUST have a permit for every person in your group and permits run $30/per person.
You can buy permits at Hon-Dah Outdoor Sport, the Hon-Dah Convenience Store or go online to wmatoutdoor.org/purchase_permit.html. You can also purchase other permits online but you must create an account first.
Please keep this area pristine for future hikers and pack out what you pack in.
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Roger Naylor's newest book about the Mother Road!
