By Anne Groebner

For a state that has only existed for 112 years, Arizona has some of the richest history in the country. Here in the White Mountains, the most wild, wild west stories took place. The mountains hid infamous outlaws and sheltered brave mountain men and cowboys. It was home to cattlemen, sheep herders and lumbermen. In fact, McNary, located on the Fort Apache Indian Reservation was, at one time, one of the largest lumber mills in the state, making the town, named after its founder, James G. McNary, the largest in the county. Folks would drive for miles to shop at the old General Store or watch a movie in the old theatre. There was a hotel, where dignitaries came to stay — and there was a train. It was called the Apache Railway and it traveled from Holbrook to the lumber mill in McNary and then rolled further on through the wilds of northeastern Arizona to a small logging camp called Maverick …and back again. 

The Apache Railway was incorporated in 1917, when it constructed a rail line from Holbrook to Snowflake. It was extended south to McNary in 1920. James McNary bought the railway and lumber mill, renaming it Southwest Forest Industries, with extended tracks all the way to Maverick. He operated it from 1935 until 1952, when he sold it to Galbreath and Green. In 1964, a tourist railroad, called the White Mountain Scenic Railroad, started operating steam powered passenger excursions from McNary to Maverick. 

Reed Hatch, engineer and owner, bought two steam engines; Sierra 36, from Sierra Nevada, and SMV 100, from California and ferried them to McNary. The passenger coaches were built in 1924 and were purchased from the “Katy” line part of the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railroad. His original route used Southwest Forest Industries’ rails running east from McNary to a spot 22 miles away called Apache Springs. A wye (a triangle of railroad track used for turning trains), led to a short spur with a turning loop at the foot of Big Cienega Mountain (the old ski hill which can still be seen from AZ Route 260). The train would run daily, departing McNary at 9:00 a.m., running 22 miles, pause for an hour and a half and serve a “cowboy” lunch at Apache Springs and Big Cienega. Then they returned to McNary by 3:00 p.m. The train climbed from 7,200 feet to 9,300 feet in elevation.

When the tracks started to deteriorate, the route was re-directed and then started from Roundhouse Square at Pinetop Lakes and journeyed to a place called Bells Siding. At Roundhouse Square there was an 1880-style depot built in turn of the century architectural design as well as a ticket office, a souvenir shop and a classic boarding platform. Behind the Depot there were the Roundhouse Square’s shops and boutiques and a restaurant. Passengers could enjoy a meal before boarding or after they returned and/or an evening cocktail in the Club Car Lounge in the restaurant. A friend of mine recalled that they had live music on weekends.

In 1976, the White Mountain Scenic Railroad ceased operations, the sawmill burned to the ground in 1979 and all of the track — some at elevations exceeding 9,000 feet — were removed by 1982. The Steam engines were sent to Heber City, Utah to be used on an excursion known as the “Heber Creeper.” Some of the buildings were moved from McNary including the old hotel which sits near the corner of Buck Springs Road and Mark Twain. Although the train and its tracks are gone, the berms left behind can still be seen around the mountain. About 21 miles of the old rail-less berms have been turned into a hiking/biking trail called the “Railroad Grade Trail,” — part of the Rails to Trails Program. You can access the trail at four different trailheads; Big Lake (behind Big Lake), Sheep’s Crossing (off AZ Route 273), Lightning Ridge (FR 116 Near Crescent Lake) and Route 260 (Just past AZ Route 273 Junction on 260). I have biked all 21 miles and it is amazing.

To me, old locomotives are magical. They journey you back to a time of simplicity and grandeur. But this train excursion was elevated to an even higher level of elegance. The White Mountain Scenic Railroad took you through the pristine forests of the Fort Apache Indian Reservation, up higher still to the wilds of a mountain terrain filled with wildlife, snow-capped peaks and rivers surrounded by meadows and fields of wildflowers — and… they fed you lunch.

A few days ago and back in the 21st century, I got a call from Shawn McCullam, General Manager, at the Roundhouse Resort. He wanted to know if I could come do a walk-through and a story about the Roundhouse. At first I thought it was just another resort, but what I didn’t know was that this was the place where the old scenic railroad picked up and dropped off passengers. It wasn’t until Shawn and Dale Webber, Association President, walked me through the older sections of the Resort and restaurant, that I could see and feel the history of the place. It was all still there, like a time machine, like it was frozen in time. It was amazing. The stories are all still there. The Roundhouse Resort has preserved a large piece of history within its walls to remind people of our past. 

 The Restaurant is reminiscent of the old locomotive days with its round depot-shaped building. There is a large round skylight and hanging chandeliers. The large French doors separate the front entrance from the lobby and its old brick fireplace, the restaurant seating area and the old Club Car Lounge. The band stand is still there with a model train overhead and I could imagine the many memories made here after an amazing trip on the old locomotive.

But the Roundhouse Resort isn’t all history. They have worked extremely hard and have updated many of the buildings and facilities to bring them into the 21st century. With pickle ball courts, pool tables, swimming pool/jacuzzi (with updated dressing rooms and water bottle dispensers), fitness Center, lawn games such as mini golf, giant outdoor chess/checker game and corn hole. There are four fire pit areas, eight barbecue grilling areas and playgrounds for kids — and they are surrounded by outdoor recreation opportunities such as guided hiking and biking on hundreds of miles of trails, paddling, and fishing. The Roundhouse Resort has everything you need to “find your ease.”



So next time you need a place to vacation, check this place out. It’s not your average resort. It’s a journey through time where the magic of trains meets the beauty of the White Mountains.